Tuesday, June 19, 2012

The Disappointments of Rouen Cathedral

"I suppose few people stand before the west front of Rouen Cathedral without some feeling of disappointment . . . The stone here looks dirty and dusty--so dusty that the over-fine tracery of the gable of the central porch is suggestive of some great cobweb." -Joseph Pennel, 1887
 We pulled into Rouen around noon, 

And ate lunch consisting of gas-station bread, cold salami, and individual yogurts with fruit at the bottom.

(Extra yogurt for me! The kids don't like fruit chunks)  
 Gypsies stood outside the western doors, 

Playing the accordion and soliciting contributions as we entered. 
 The cathedral is a crumbly pile of gothic wonderment, 

Like a great coral reef set down in the center of a medieval town, 

With Apostles, 
 Ancient Prophets, 
Tourists, and Martyrs,

Wandering in and out of its ornate alcoves.

Sadly, the Cathedral was bombed in April 1944, and two rose windows destroyed.

That's kind of disappointing.
Joan of Arc probably felt disappointed, 

 As she burned at the stake in view of the cathedral's west front;  
But I can't say that we felt that way. 


* Joseph Pennel, Highways and Byways of Normandy: Macmillan, 1900. 

No comments:

Post a Comment